Saturday, July 9, 2011

Reflections

So what was it all about this 500 miles marathon?

Well it wasn't about hiking every step of the GR10. Basically we intended to walk from the Atlantic to the Med mainly along the GR10 but without slavishly staying with the route. We modified our schedule to accomodate our available time (47 days), and the weather.

Scattering Matt's ashes on Iguzki at the Atlantic end and Canigou near the Med in some ways defined Matt's March although there was around a week of walking either before or after these points.

Speaking personally this was the hardest physical challenge that I had ever set myself and there were lots of occassions, especially early on, when I did not think that I was going to make it. Carrying a 20kg pack over broken country with a daily schedule of 20km along, 1km up and 1km down is a punishing routine day after day. The trip stripped 1.5st off my body weight. I know at the begining that I was walking bent almost double under the pack looking mainly at my feet, but by the end was able to walk upright and see the scenery.

Every day there were enjoyable periods but I'd be lying if I said that I enjoyed every moment of every day. It was hard and every day presented a fresh challenge.

However it was an adventure that was completely Matt from start (biting off a lot more than we could chew) to the end (patting ourselves on the back in the pub). Virtually every day one of us would say to the other, "Matt would so have enjoyed this!"

Would I do it again?
No, but I'm so glad that I managed to do it once and the memories will live with me for ever.
Being able to complete the journey that I had discussed with Matt, with Sarah, was a priviledge. I know that it meant an awful lot to her to complete this marathon in her brother's place.



PS  I know that lots of people had trouble leaving comments on the blog. If you have un-answered questions regarding the blog or simply want to get in contact you can reach me on rickelliott@tiscali.co.uk

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Acknowledgements

You don't just decide to walk 500 miles over the Pyrennes, you need a driving force. Thank you Matt, although most days provided ample reasons why we just weren't going to complete the trek, you provided just one as why we were and there really wasn't any doubt.

My girls have just been awesome!

Sue didn't actually want me to go on the trip but has nevertheless provided complete support. The blog would have been a pretty sorry and disjointed narrative without her input and seeing her at Banyuls was the .step back towards a normal world. Thank you.

Sarah lead the whole trip. She did the planning, the nav and the cooking. I would not have attempted the trip without her . She is a Mountain Leader and her language ability is awesome (she just doesn't speak English a lot louder TOM). She also carried a heavier pack than mine throughout. We did manage one falling-out but in 50 days that isn't bad. Thank you (you'll see you were wrong in time).

Me, I just turned up, spoke no French, whinged a lot, slowed progress and ate more than my share, but hey I'm a bloke.

We met a lot of wonderful people on the way each of whom helped us towards our objective because that's what people do out on the GR10. Gregor, Pieter & Evelyn, Sam & Brian, the 4 lads from the Sigeurs gite, Eric the cyclist, and all the ones I've missed. You all contributed to our journey ... thanks.

And finally all you folks who just read the blog instead of watching some pretty dire TV, thank you too. It really would not be worthwhile writing any sort of narrative if there wasn't anybody reading it.

There will probably be a final blog "Reflections"

The Missing 3 Weeks

During week 5 the weather began to relent so that we had really good weather interspersed with the low cloud and drizzle - was this the start of a significant change or merely a false dawn. We also began to leave the slightly miserible, second home dominated towns and villages of the Ariage (ferme) behind and replace them with up country scenery. At the end of the week we also had our first ridge walk. We climbed and then stayed up for a whole day with great views.
Week 6 was full of beautiful weather, warm days, brilliant scenery and good progress. Sarah's birthday was a special event and she proudly carried a selection of coloured balloons all day with a slogan Birthday Girl across each one. All were ignored by the few passers by we encountered perhaps we should have done a translation? Still good excuse for a lunch with a bottle of Champers!
Each wild camp that we pitched got it's own name so Branch camp, Dam camp, Sheep camp, Storm camp, Birthday camp and Crossed Tree camp are all now marked on our maps. Storm camp deserves an extra mention as apparently there was a very heavy hail storm that evening although we just received it as thunder, lightning and heavy raindrops on the tent whilst we prayed quietly inside. We also managed to camp within 4 feet of a ski restaurant. Not the most scenic site we picked but as the rain was awful and the visibility not much better we considered it appropriate. However we did manage to find one of those little huts that the lift operators use open, and as luck had it there was a heater inside so by morning we'd managed to dry out all the kit!
Finally as our days on the trail entered the forties we reached the Canigou massive. The weather had settled into the clear blue skies that we'd expected from day one and the scenery was majestic. On Day 42 we climbed Canigou from the difficult western side which meant a spot of real climbing, which is a bit of a challenge with 20kg on your back. However the effort was worthwhile and at 10 o'clock on Sunday morning we were sat at almost 2800m on top of Canigou. We spent an hour up there mostly thinking about the journey and why we'd attempted it. It was actually quite similar to the Black Cuillin in lots of ways. We scattered some of Matt's ashes and then left the lofty peak to the morning sunshine.
In some ways Matt's March ended there even though we still had 5 days to the coast.

Monday, July 4, 2011

They made it!

Day 47 Friday 1st July

Picked up two very tired, and pretty grubby tramps at the beach in Banyuls sur Mer - extremely pleased to have made it in one piece, and also both with a huge feeling of achievement. And sore feet. And tired legs!

Thanks to our lovely friends in Salses, John and Monique,  who took us in and looked after us whilst Rick and Sarah rested and tried to eat them out of house and home!

They're looking much more perky (not to mention cleaner) now, and we're all on the move again. Sue and Rick by car, touring a bit of Spain and France for a well-earned break; and Sarah - always a glutton for punishment - is on her way to lead a trek in India for World Challenge! Where does she get her energy from???

Rick will be writing a brief blog on the last few days of the walk in a day or two - once his energy levels allow him to keep awake for long enough!

Thanks to everyone who've followed their journey and sent encouragement. It has all been much appreciated.
Sue


Thanks for your kind comments Scott - glad to know you found our journey interesting. I wish you luck and strength for your attempt. Is well worth it for the feeling of achievement, but can honestly say is REALLY HARD!
We DID find the guide book we used (Cicerone) could have been more helpful / informative / accurate at times. If you need any further info or details for your planning send me your email address and I'll be pleased to help.
Rick

Sunday, July 3, 2011

The grand finale...

Final day final section to Banyuls

Follow the waymarks through the woods

Too windy even for my hat but can see the sea
That's Banyuls down there !

Sea level at last
Been for a paddle

And I have walked 500 miles, and I have walked 500 miles!


Week seven in pictures

Camped at Cortalets just below Canigou
Over-dramatising a simple stream crossing !!

One of the great Camenberts of the trip

Then cover in honey for a major calorie boost

Doing homework at the gite
Time for a well earned beer ......or 2

Chocolate Liegeois 5.90 .......bargain but must wait for final day
But could manage a bit of melon and ham for a starter

Night drews in on the final night on the GR10
Just one more day to go !

Week six in pictures

It's Week 6 and some of us are bright and ready to go and Oh Dear some are asleep on their feet
Rayleigh energy bombs on Sarah's birthday
Who's the Birthday Girl then ?

Duck Cassoulet birthday treat !

It's another lovely day but up there is the next col to cross
Flies just love Dad's clean socks !!
Meal preparation with the usual cook's perks !
As the days go by the rucksack get's smaller and lighter .......NOT !

Tonight's meal ... Cassoulet au Porc ... very nice too !
GOOD MORNING CAMPERS
Climbing Canigou from the difficult side
A scramble turns into a full blown climb up the "Chimney"
And we are up !
With a nice easy descent
After we scatter some ashes and remember exactly why we're doing this